Cowboy boots vs ropers

A roper is the quiet entry point into western boots, and this is the one to start with. Ariat's Heritage Roper uses a round toe, a low walking heel and a shorter shaft than the Roughstock, which changes two things for a beginner: it is far easier to walk in on hard floors, and it disappears under a pair of jeans instead of announcing itself. If the thing stopping you buying cowboy boots is that you think you will look like you are in costume, buy a roper first. The same Ariat construction cues apply - full-grain upper, cushioned insole - and because the heel is low, the break-in period is shorter and the ankle rub most people complain about in week one is much milder.

What you give up: You give up the silhouette. A roper is not what people picture when they say cowboy boot, and it will not hold a stirrup the way a riding heel does.

If you want one boot that will not be a mistake, this is the one most first-time buyers end up in. Ariat publishes a full-grain leather upper, Goodyear welt construction, a 12-inch shaft and a 2-inch western heel, with its Duratread outsole and a removable Pro Performance insole. The reason it suits a beginner is the combination: the welt means it can be resoled instead of thrown away, and the cushioned removable insole means it is wearable on day one rather than after a month of pain. It is sold in a square toe and in narrower shapes, so you can pick the toe that fits your foot rather than taking whatever the model comes in. At the usual street price it sits in the middle of the market - above the mall-brand boots that are glued together, below the handmade tier you do not need yet.

What you give up: You give up character. This is the Toyota Camry of cowboy boots - nobody in a boot shop will be impressed, and the leather will not develop the patina a $400 calfskin boot does.

If your first pair has to survive a concert, a fairground or a shift on your feet, buy a rubber sole and a low heel - and the Rebel is the clearest version of that. Durango publishes full-grain antiqued leather, a double-row welt stitch, a flexible dual-density outsole made with slip-, oil- and abrasion-resisting rubber, a 1.5-inch rocker heel, a tempered steel shank and a cushioned, ventilated footbed. The rocker heel is the detail beginners underrate: it rolls the step forward instead of dropping your weight onto a stacked heel, which is why this boot does not punish you at hour six. The 11-inch pull-on shaft with pull straps also makes it one of the easier boots to get on without a boot jack.

What you give up: You give up traditional looks and resoleability in the classic sense. The dual-density rubber sole is a cobbler job, not a simple leather resole, and purists will clock it instantly.

Dan Post lists the Renegade CS with a distressed leather vamp and stitched upper, a square toe with a western heel, a single-stitched welt over a Dan Post leather outsole, full leather lining with its Ultimate Flex insole, and a 13-inch shaft. The 13-inch shaft is the reason to pick it: a taller shaft keeps a bootcut jean sitting where it should instead of bunching at the ankle, and it is what makes a boot look deliberate rather than borrowed. The distressed finish also forgives the scuffs a first pair inevitably collects in month one, which is a real advantage when you are still learning not to kick doorframes.

What you give up: You give up easy entry. A 13-inch shaft takes more effort to get on and off, and a leather sole again means caution on wet tile.