Reference
Cowboy hat shapes and creases
Six creases, what each one signals, and the one to buy before you know which you like.
By Selena H. · Updated October 13, 2026
Buy a cattleman first - a center dent with two side creases. It is the shape most people picture when they think cowboy hat, it suits the widest range of faces, and it is what most pre-creased hats come in. Every other crease is a preference you develop later.
| Crease | Looks like | Signals | Suits |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cattleman | Center dent, two side creases, tall crown | The classic. Working and dress alike | Almost everyone |
| Pinch front / Brick | Front pinched to a point, flatter crown | Modern, dressier, rodeo-adjacent | Longer faces |
| Gus | Sloped crown, high at the back, dipping forward | Traditional, old west | Strong features, taller wearers |
| Open crown | No crease at all - a smooth dome | A blank canvas for a hatter | Anyone having a hat custom shaped |
| Telescope / Gambler | Flat-topped crown with a circular crease | Southwestern, dressy | Round faces |
| Cutter | Very tall crown, narrow | Show and competition | Tall wearers, show settings |
Pre-creased versus open crown
Most hats sold ready to wear are pre-creased - the shape is blocked in at the factory, and on a felt hat it can be reshaped later by a hatter with steam. An open crown hat comes with no crease at all so that you or a hatter can shape it to your preference. For a first hat, pre-creased is simpler and cheaper; open crown is for someone who already knows what they want and has a hatter.
Can you reshape a crease?
- Felt - yes. A hatter steams and re-blocks it, usually for a modest fee, and the change is permanent and clean.
- Straw - essentially no. Straw does not take steam the way felt does, and attempting it cracks the weave.
- At home - possible on felt over a kettle, and the way most people put a dent in the wrong place permanently. Pay the hatter.
Brim shape, separately
The crease is the crown; the brim has its own shape. A flat brim reads modern and show-ring; a moderate curl on both sides is the everyday default; a strong curl reads traditional and rodeo. Like the crease, a felt brim can be re-curled by a hatter with steam, and a straw brim mostly cannot.
Hats in the classic crease
All three of these come pre-creased in a cattleman, which is the shape to start with.
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Common questions
What is the most popular cowboy hat crease?
The cattleman - a center dent with two side creases and a tall crown. It is the shape most people picture, it suits the widest range of faces, and most pre-creased hats come in it.
What is an open crown cowboy hat?
A hat sold with no crease at all, so that you or a hatter can shape the crown to your own preference. It is a choice for people who already know what they want, not a first hat.
Can you reshape a cowboy hat?
Felt, yes - a hatter steams and re-blocks it. Straw, essentially no: it does not take steam the way felt does and attempting it cracks the weave.
What is a gus crease?
A sloped crown that sits high at the back and dips toward the front. It is a traditional old-west shape that suits strong features and taller wearers.
Does the crease change how a hat fits?
Not the fit, which is set by the size and the sweatband, but it changes the apparent height of the crown and therefore how the hat balances your face.
About the author
Selena H.
Selena H. is the owner and editor of Spur & Stitch. She started the site after discovering how much western-boot buying advice assumes you already know what a welt is. Every guide here is written for the person buying their first pair.
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